Feasting in Gotham

My friends always want my recommendations for the Big Apple. Everyone has an opinion about New York. But here are my thoughts (sorry in advance for the tome) - it is an updated version from a blog entry I wrote for the IABC International Conference which just took place in New York.

New York has every food and drink imaginable. It is the gastronomic capital of the world (ok - maybe Paris wins that boast.)

But if you were to pick one word to describe New York - you would have to say “food”. There are too many options to choose from as you can nosh on street meat to all-out gourmet fare in posh Michelin rated restaurants. New York has terrific choices - you really have to go out of your way to get a bad meal. There is no real definite “best” list in my opinion. The restaurant scene is always evolving and there are so many new places to try not to mention always a new hot spot.

If you want to be like a New Yorker - skip the Zagat reviews and check out Citysearch.com. Citysearch is free (no subscription required) and you can dive deeper into comments compared to Zagat. Not to mention check out many other cities for good spots. If you want to make online reservations - use opentable.com. Warning - make reservations for the hot spots. Go early or very late (I mean a 10 pm sitting) if you really need to try a particular trendy restaurant. Heads up -some reservations do not accept reservations.

Check out previous blog entries on a New York gastropub called The Spotted Pig, the bagels at H & H Bagels, great food with moderate prices at Tribeca’s Upstairs or cupcakes made famous courtesy of Sex and the City at Magnolia Bakery.

One can easily just do the city’s best chef or celebrity chef tour and still run out of time and perhaps even $$$. You could create your own foodie roadmap! Each has their own food empire - aka they own a multitude of restaurants and of course, their own signature style.

Here are a few to consider:

Mario Batali - better known as the Food Network TV Star who wears clogs and called “Molto Mario”and known for Italian fare. If you want a fantastic dining experience - try out two star Michelin rated Del Posto located in Chelsea (feels like you have entered an opulent hotel lobby) but I really enjoyed their tasting menu with two pastas including a unique spaghetti with crabmeat, chive blossoms and spicy habanero peppers. If you are into wine, they have an impressive spectrum of regional Italian varietals. My New York colleagues also love Mario’s Lupa (on Thompson Street between Bleecker and Houston Streets) which has a trattoria menu aka more reasonably priced menu with authentic seasonal ingredients. It is on my “must try list”.

I really liked David Bouley’s Upstairs which is on top of his Bouley Bakery & Market in Tribeca. It is a small dining room with an open kitchen but very moderate prices and great food (check on my blog entry on this restaurant). For upscale Michelin star Austrian fare, you could also try Danube - although considered ecletic and I love wiener schnitzel and spatlze, it isn’t on my list to try as there are too many other restaurants.

You can also try the other DB aka Daniel Boulud for French (he has a spot in Las Vegas and now he is venturing into Canada as he is opening a DB Bistro Moderne in Vancouver where Rob Fennie’s Lumiere was located). A few chefs have recommended Cafe Boulud on East 76th but I have yet to try it. Then again you can also try his DB Bistro Moderne on West 44th Street.

There is one of my favourite chefs - Jean-Georges (ok - he is actually Jean Georges Vongerichten). I discovered Vong (on East 54th Street at Third Avenue) years ago - it is a great spot for French Asian cooking. I also enjoyed Mercer Kitchen, his Soho eatery in the basement of the Mercer Hotel. It was a perfect spot for lunch after exploring the galleries and shops in Soho. It is a chic spot - very fashionable and has a contemporary menu. His newest venture(I have not yet tried it) is the Spice Market for updated Southeast Asian cusine in the trendy Meatpacking district (13th Street at Ninth Avenue) which my colleagues rave about.

I have always wanted to make it to one of restaurateur (he is not a chef) Danny Meyer’s spots - like the Gramercy Tavern or Union Square Cafe for quintessential New York and modern American cooking. But I haven’t yet to try them.

There is also Laurent Tourondel’s restaurant empire to try. You can check out BLT Fish, BLT Prime, and BLT Steak. By the way, the “B” refers to the word”bistro” but not in the French sense but more American steakhouse. I tried BLT Prime on one of my last visits to New York and had a delicious meal. It has sleek decor and of course plenty of noise; but great meat particularly the Japanese Kobe or American Wagyu beef (I tried the Wagyu Skirt Steak). It has a real hip New York feel to the restaurant with the aging cuts of meat presented (in the meat locker) right by the hostess desk and a big blackboard as the menu. They have delicious popovers to accompany the meal and you can get the recipe to take home. But it is really noisy. Of course, if you want more classic steakhouse - you can also try Smith & Wollensky (a US chain) for USDA prime beef or Peter Luger (despite the beer hall ambience) it is famous for its beef but you need to trek to Brooklyn. It is too far for me.

Of course, if you really want to splurge on supreme culinary experiences - you can check out three Michelin starred Le Bernardin (Eric Ripert is a master with fish - I have been to his Grand Cayman restaurant), Chanterelle in Tribeca (French) - it is one of my brother’s favourite spots for special occasions - it’s $$$$ dining, Time Warner Center’s Masa (Japanese omakase meal with a $400 price tag) or you can try Bar Masa (it is adjacent to the pricey Masa and recommended by a friend) with its seasonal menu, and Nobu (upscale sushi - I have been to the Hong Kong restaurant and recommend you try the yellowtail with jalapeno). You can also visit Nobu Fifty Seven (in midtown West).

I have paid homage to what I call culinary mecca - Thomas Keller’s three Michelin starred Per Se in the Time Warner Centre at Columbus Circle with an incredible view of Central Park. But I had to wait two and half months for a reservation (note there are only 15 tables) and it was only for lunch with a hefty price tag (well worth it). Of course, it was a four hour multi-course culinary journey and just bliss. Keller is considered the best chef in the USA (known also for French Laundry in Napa and Bouchon). You can try his Bouchon Bakery at the Time Warner Centre at Columbus Circle by Central Park. It is no more than take out counter for sandwiches and/or desserts with some tables if you want to do an instant nosh.

If you are into Food Network TV, you can also try Gordon Ramsay’s restaurant Gordon Ramsay at The London (it has two Michelin stars and $$$$ not to mention a small dining room for 45. He also has the more casual version - Maze that serves tapas like dishes. Both spots have tasting menus that hover up around $100 or so. I did like the bar there - it is quite a scene with all the beautiful people. Maybe you are into Tom Collichio, he has the very hip Craft empire. Friends rave about Craft. There is Craft on 19th Street between Broadway and Park Avenue South. I am hoping to try his casual cousin Craftbar for American Mediterrean fare.

If you are hankering southwest mexican fare, try Bobby Flay’s Mesa Grill in the Union Square Area. I haven’t it yet but I do like watching him on TV.

Maybe you want check out Iron Chef Morimoto at his namesake japanese/fusion/sushi spot, but it is $$$$. Morimoto is across the street from Del Posto.

So enough already with the celeb chefs.

For pan - Asian fare, you can try the Monkey Bar on 54th between Madison and Park which has hand painted simians on the walls. Of course, you can do Sex and the City tour spot at Tao with their 16 foot Buddha with Chinese, Japanese and Thai dishes (great for small plates and sharing).

For Japanese, my brother recommends Tribeca’s En on Hudson and Leroy. It is the hip and trendy spot and a japanese brassiere to boot. Maybe you want Japanese ramen noodles - try Menchanko-Tei Midtown West on W55th Street. Or visit their sister restaurant Onigashima (next door) for sushi and noodles. I haven’t been but my brother recommends them. I do want to try Momofuku Noodle Bar in the East Village for its ramen noodles just like Japan. My brother also recommends Sakagura near the United Nations on E43rd. It’s all about sake - 200 kinds and japanese tapas for nibbling.

Looking for a neighourhood fixture in Chinatown - check out The Chinatown Ice Cream Factory for its Asian flavours like lychee, taro, black sesame, or candied ginger ice cream or classics like mint chocolate chip. It is located on Bayard Street between Mott and Elizabeth Streets. I have taken many people here after doing the Canal Street thing.

For French - there is La Bonne Soupe which is a modestly priced and casual spot just off Fifth Avenue on 55th Avenue between Fifth and Sixth. Yes, you can get good soup, savory crepes, croque monsieur, salads and of course, steak frites. It is so convenient to Fifth Avenue shopping and perfect if you need a breather. Then there is also the authethic French bistro Balthazar on Spring Street in Soho (part of Keith McNally’s empire). You must try their frites served in a paper cone, seafood towers, and of course their bread which is baked on the premises in their bakery next door.

If you are up in midtown area, you can hit Rue 57 on W57th Street at 6th Avenue for French/Japanese bistro. They also have a great brunch. If you are looking for a trendy spot - try the Meatpacking district’s Pastis ($$$) at 9th Avenue (it is also part of Keith McNally’s empire). It has all the French classics plus frites!

If you want Greek - try Estiatorio Milos ( the original restaurant is in Montreal and one of my favourite spots). While a noisy spot which makes you feel like you are in a Greek taverna and a little $, you can enjoy fresh from the sea fish displayed at the counter (you pick by weight) and decide if it should be grilled or baked in sea salt. I really like Milos.

If you are in Times Square and looking for Italian, try Osteria Al Doge on W 44th between Broadway and 6th. It is a terrific Venetian inspired restaurant set amongst all the touristy fast food chains. You can also try Broadway’s Blue Fin for seafood which is connected to the W Hotel Times Square. It looks like a nightclub on the ground floor with blue ocean walls and mirrors. These spots are handy when you are seeing a Broadway show. A few blocks north is Trattoria Dell’Arte by Carnegie Hall on Seventh Avenue between 56 and 57th. - Italian of course! Personally I avoid eating in Times Square and prefer to visit a neighbourhood.

Of course, I like the Upper West Side for dining - it feels more local and neighbourhood like. The pricing is more realistic for us mere mortals. There is a chock-block of restaurants. If you want to try Mediterranean - check out Isabella’s (great for brunch!) on Columbus at 77th street or to get a taste of Provence, visit Nice Matin at 79th and Amsterdam (also great for brunch). Another breakfast or brunch spot is Sarabeth’s Kitchen (locations on both the Upper East and Upper West sides). Sarabeth’s now has a location at 40 Central Park South - so if you are near the Plaza Hotel or 5th Avenue or the south end of Central Park. I do love their preserves.

Of course, if you want to try the Lower East Side, try the tasting menu at wd-50 on Clinton with award winning chef Wylie Dufresne. He has an experimental style -basically he is a proponent of molecular gastronomy. One of my dishes (his signature) was an “egg” which was really a carrot-coconut sunnyside up egg and the carrot ran like an egg yolk when poked with a fork. Dessert was chocolate dirt complete with “grubs” which was sunflower seeds. He takes science to food prep and presentation. It is a lot of fun and eye brow raising. The waiter introduced me to a great Riesling which I had ended up running around Toronto to buy out the stock (got a case and a half).

For deli - check out the New York institution for Jewish comfort food with old fashion decor on Amsterdam at 86th Street - Barney Greengrass. Looking for more kosher deli - try Katz’s on E. Houston at Ludlow Street. It is one of the original Eastern European restaurants in the Lower East Side (1888)- great pastrami and Matzo ball soup. It is like you stepped back in time even the waiters have worked there for fifty years. Just remember to keep your ticket. Of course, there is the conveniently located Carneige Deli in midtown. But be prepared that you will be charged $ for sharing but the sandwiches are Jurassic in size but I love their half sour pickles (free) and pairing it with Dr. Brown’s Black Cherry soda (a deli thing). Of course, it is considered a tourist destination but it is right in the theater district with celebrity photographs lining the walls and you can have their New York cheesecakes.

Rosa Mexicano on First at 58th is always packed. So make reservations if you want Mexican. You can have your guacamole made to order at your table.

Doing the modern art thing at the recently renovated Museum of Modern Art, my colleagues recommend The Modern on 53rd between Fifth and Sixth for contemporary cuisine.

Looking for a break from all the sightseeing or a casual brunch spot? Try Le Pain Quotidien - a Belgian chain with great homemade hazelnut spread, fresh bread and pastries. It is good for a meal or just a snack. Locations throughout the city. They just opened one in Toronto.

ooking for pizza? Try Patsy’s for tasty New York style pies and affordable dining. I also like sharing their insalata argula with their penne alla vodka or fettucine carbonara. They have locations around the city but I like visiting the Upper East Side location (200 East 60th Street at Third Avenue) so that I can visit Dylan’s Candy Bar for candy and chocolate. Dylan is the daughter of Ralph Lauren. which is across the street.

If you want ice cream sundaes and dessert (they also have burgers and crepes)- try Serependity Cafe. I like their frrrozen hot chocolate which is also sold now in Williams-Sonoma. Yes, this is the same cafe as the movie with the same name starring John Cusack and Kate Beckinsdale. It is across the street from Patsy’s on East 60th Street. If you are looking for pizza near Times Square, try John’s Pizzeria at 260W 44st or his Greenwich location at 278 Bleecker. This is more of New York style pizza. But I prefer Patsy’s.

Found yourself in Soho? While it isn’t fancy fare - it is moderate priced contemporary American food at Zoe at 90 Prince Street. I have found it very consistent over the years.
Ok - so what about those hot dogs? Try Gray’s Papaya or Papaya King with locations all over Manhattan.

Street food? Street vendors abound and it is fast and economical. It is easy to get breakfast on the go with a coffee and a roll.

Yes - the coffee is poured in an iconic blue and white paper cup with the Acropolis just like the movies and tv shows which are set in New York City.

You can even get roasted nuts and the aroma of sweet honey roasted nuts and chestnuts (winter time)beckons you to buy. You can even get noodles, soft warm pretzels with rock salt and even falafel. By the way, if you want fruit - you will find numerous mini-markets on the street corners.

New Yorkers pride themselves on knowing where to find the best of everything and they love talking about restaurants.

Don’t forget to try a cosmopolitan, manhattan or a big apple martini! And the bellini which is prosecco with peach puree (you can try the original at Harry Cipriani’s on Fifth Avenue which is replica of their Venice restaurant with their fantastic calamari risotto but the prices are very $$$$ or at Downtown Cipriani  in Soho). Of course if you are visiting the Rainbow Room, Cipriani does the catering - so you can enjoy a bellini while enjoying the 360 view of New York including the Empire State Building.

If you are wondering - my go to list for next visit - I have Blue Hill near Washington Square Park - they have their own farm for meat and organic vegetables. I am also interested in trying Aquavit for Scandinavian cuisine. The chef is born in Ethiopia but raised in Sweden. I have gotten my share of pickled herring on visits to Sweden but I watched Opening Soon on Food Network TV which featured Aquavit. 

I hope you discover some wonderful eateries and give me your recommendations and tips on what to avoid!


Delectable Macarons

Have you tried a French macaron or macroon? I mean the very colourful almond based meringue “sandwich” cookies that are lightly infused with a variety of essences and sandwiched together with flavoured ganache, buttercream, or jam. It is really easy to get obsessed with these delicacies that have a light and crisp exterior and are smooth and soft in the middle.

You might be thinking of the chewy coconut variety. Martha Stewart and others refer to them as French Almond Cookies or French Macaroons. But these are elegant and light-as-air treats rather than a tangled mess of shredded coconut. In fact, there is no coconut in this delectable and stylish cookie. It is simply ground almonds, egg whites and sugar. They come in a rainbow of colours from vivid green for pistachio to bright pink for rose.

I discovered them years ago in a historic and elegant tea salon and patisserie called Laduree on Champs Elysees in Paris. They also have other tea salons in Paris, and shops in London, Berlin, Monaco and Geneva. Pierre Desfontaines Laduree is credited with the invention of a macaron and they sell them in every flavour and pastel shades. Not to mention every season, they create new flavours. They are the standard by which I judge other macarons. You can also find them at Fauchon, one of my all-time favourite luxury food shops at place de la Madeleine. (Fauchon has the best pear jam from the Alpes!)

Supposedly one of the best are made by patissier Pierre Herme. He worked at both Fauchon and Laduree. He has locations in Paris and Tokyo. I know when I go back to Paris, I have to try his Ispahan macaron in rose petal pink with raspberries and lychees. Sounds incredibly innovative not to mention tasty! If you are planning a trip to Paris, you must do the tour of macarons and tell me which has the best.
They are a rare find in North America. In fact, they must be the most difficult baked item to locate from a retail perspective. I have been fortunate to have some “macs” when I visit a haute cuisine restaurant and they provide some on a petit-fours or mignardises plate. Case in point - my trip to culinary mecca - aka Per Se in New York City. (petit fours are defined as little baked pastries).

While you might locate them at the retail level - they are not always very good. For instance, I have tried the version from Keller’s New York’s Bouchon Bakery at the Shops at Columbus Circle. While large in size, I didn’t find these ones matched Paris. I found them too chewy and was disappointed. Not to mention very large and not at all delicate.

In Hong Kong’s IFC mall, they have a cafe called Le Gouter Bernardaud. The store is conveniently just above the Airport Express train station and I can dash upstairs prior to heading to the airport. They even have a little catalogue to help you choice. While they have 12 plus choices including PASSION - passion fruit infused with velvety chocolate ganache, FRAISES COQUELICOT PAMPLEMOUSSE - grapefruit and poppyseed cream with a dollop of strawberry filling and even a surprise combination - OLIVE - olive oil infused white chocolate ganache, I still stick to PISTACHE - a very classic smooth pistachio filling, ROSE (simply a delicate rose infused cream) and FRAMBOISE (wild rasberries). It is the ultimate mid-air snack. While they are made fresh and without preservatives, great care is required for transportation and storage. So after seven hours into my flight back to Toronto - they are little crushed but still perfect with a little cup of tea. If you are wondering - they are pretty close to the ones in Paris.

Supposedly my favourite London food halls also carry them - Fortnum and Mason and Selfridge’s. I am too busy looking at everything else to notice. Probably because macarons = Paris.

In Toronto, it is equally a challenge to find them. In fact, I introduced one of my former PR colleagues to them when she visited Paris and subsequently wanted to give them out as wedding bonbonieres or favours. She searched high and low for them and located them in Patachou bakery/pastry shop on Yonge Street and Price (just south of Summerhill TTC station). I had a craving for them recently and ended up buying one in every flavour or colour (six of them in fact). Ok - I did share them. They are bite size and priced at 90 cents per cookie. (yes, macarons are pricey) By far, the chocolate and lemon ones were my favourites.

If you reside in the USA and want to try them - you can order them from MadMacNYC.com or via www.lepicerie.com. Hard to believe even Neiman Marcus department store sold them online as well.

On my next trip to New York, I hope to try the ones from La Madison du Chocolat at Rockefeller Centre and Payard. I also heard that Sucre in New Orleans makes some good ones.

Supposedly Vancouver based Thomas Haas also offers macarons in his North Shore patisserie and cafe. I haven’t yet to try them. But I know Haas makes some incredibly delicate fruit jellies aka pate de fruits from the freshest fruit and just apple pectin. I have ordered them online once. They are delightful.

By the way - you can attempt to “make” them yourself - but personally I think they are too fussy to make.

If you are wondering, I don’t like them too sweet. I hope you try them and decide which ones you like. Maybe you can add to this list of where to find macarons around the world.


NYC restaurant find: Upstairs

While waiting to get into a trendy restaurant in New York (they didn’t take reservations), I discovered a little gem of a restaurant with great food and modest pricing. Nothing like crossing the street out of impatience and finding a delicious new restaurant.

It is simply called Upstairs at Bouley (130 West Broadway at Duane in Tribeca). Simply named but it is famed New York chef David Bouley’s Upstairs. I found it by accident that evening since the entrance is rather low-key.

David Bouley is an acclaimed American born two-star Michelin chef who trained in France. He also owns Bouley (French) and the Danube (Austrian fare). Both are also located in Tribeca. Chef Bouley is all about fresh and pure ingredients and signature service. Upstairs is no different and is supposedly a miniature and more restrained version of his signature Bouley restaurant. (haven’t tried it yet)

He opened this tri-level bakery/pastry shop on the ground floor, a meat and cheese market in the basement and of course, a tiny restaurant “upstairs” that probably seats about thirty people.

It is a French-American restaurant with a sushi bar. Of course, it is rather unique and eclectic as a result. Hodge podge is a great way to describe it. By the way, it has an intimate open kitchen with little tables. So it can get cramped.

I really enjoyed the calamari salad and the halibut with sweet corn, shiitake mushrooms, with a lemon thyme sauce. A great way to finish the meal is with a platter of the sushi/sashimi. Great cuts of fish and very tasty rice. No surprise, I enjoyed their bread (aka fresh baguette) and pastries . I found the service to be excellent.

If you are looking for an informal dining spot in New York City with modest prices but very good food - I would give this place a try. It feels very local and neighbourhood like. Entrees range from $15-$27. Most of them hover below the $20 mark. They also offer seasonal menu items.

Note they don’t take reservations. I suggest you go early or late. As well, on weekends, beware of the noise level.

By the way, I can’t tell you the name of the original restaurant I was suppose to try but can tell you that I would highly recommend Upstairs if you find yourself in New York.


Cupcake Nation

Do you prefer chocolate or vanilla? What’s your cupcake personality type? Cupcakes are the ultimate comfort dessert! (sorry, apple crumble or apple pie a la mode don’t cut it in my books).

They have become hip again. A few years ago, Gourmet magazine featured it on their cover - cupcakes have made it! Imagine the simple cupcake! Paris Hilton ordered them while under house arrest. They are even popular for weddings - Rebecca Romijin from the Ugly Betty television show had a cupcake wedding cake. Oprah and Katie Holmes loves Beverly Hills’ Sprinkles which supposedly has stores in Dallas, Phoenix and other spots. You can even buy their mix at Williams-Sonoma - in store and online. Supposedly at the LA based store, they offer frosting shots - aka forego the cake - just eat frosting. But I haven’t tried them yet - have to add them to the list of “food” to try when I go to Los Angeles.

I was hanging out in a kitchen gadget store (one of my favourite pasttimes - how many cool gadgets can one own?) and discovered a Cup-A-Cake, a plastic cupcake holder. Can you imagine? Supposedly two Michigan’s moms invented it for their kids to take cupcakes to take to school. Don’t you just wish you had it when you were a kid?

So what about cupcakes? Well if you are a fan of Sex and the City, then you may recall they lionized the cupcakes from New York City’s Magnolia Bakery in the West Village (Bleecker Street and 11th or so). They are credited with starting the cupcake craze. The bakery was even mentioned in movie The Devil Wears Prada. I tried them recently and wasn’t so impressed. They were rather dry in my books. But I am willing to try them again.

Admittedly they were from their second location on Columbus in the Upper West Side rather than the original shop. I have tried several times to buy them at the original shop but I was time-starved and the queues are too long. Supposedly on Fridays and Saturdays - the line-ups go until 11:30 pm!

However I am a big fan of Kara’s Cupcakes in San Francisco which I discovered on my last trip. I tried their Meyer Lemony Lemon which is a vanilla cupcake with a tart lemon filling and lemon buttercream. Sure I could have tried the traditional version but how often can you have a filled cupcake? It was a wonderful treat with the tartness of the lemon filling and moist cake. So perfect in my books.

Not to mention I love their store. I visited Kara’s Cupcakes Marina district (uber hip neighbourhood) store. They display their treats like jewelry in teak glass cases and how can you not want to buy everyone when they are decorated with little fondant flowers or polka dots? More interesting, all the ingredients are organic from premium artisan producers. Not to mention, they are produced within 100 miles of San Francisco. You can’t go wrong with a Kara’s cupcake when they are so environmental consious and use premium chocolate from Scharffen Berger or Ghirardelli.

Toronto has the Cupcake Shoppe (that is all they sell) and admittedly I bought more than 800 of them for a corporate event. They were a big hit and disappeared really quickly. They are baked from scratch and have whimsical names like James Brown (Chocolate cake with chocolate buttercream) or Sleepless in Toronto (Vanilla or Chocolate with coffee buttercream). Super rich but delicious.

It is such a delicate balance between the frosting and the cake. But the simple cupcake is a sweet treat in both good and bad times (particularly when gas is more than $1.30 a litre and real estate values are dropping). It is the ultimate pick-me-up when you think we are headed for a recession.

My question for you - Do you prefer chocolate or vanilla?


And what combination? Vanilla with vanilla frosting or vanilla with chocolate frosting or maybe it is chocolate and chocolate frosting or perhaps chocolate with vanilla frosting. Too many choices - so little time!


Iron Chef Canada

Recently, we played hommage to Canada’s top chef and internationally acclaimed - Susur Lee at his namesake restaurant, Susur. Unfortunately he is closing Susur and opening a restaurant in the Big Apple but he still has the more casual Lee restaurant open. (It is great too!) For those who are not familiar with him, he was on Food Network’s Iron Chef America and battled with grill man and Iron Chef Bobby Flay. It was a draw. He combines classical French cuisine with Chinese ingredients and cooking for a truly gastronomical experience. For those living or visiting New York City, you can experience Susur as he will be opening a restaurant in the Thompson LES Hotel in Fall 2008.

Our waitress recommended the 2004 L’Ecole 41 Cabernet Sauvignon from Walla Walla Valley, Washington to pair with our eight course tasting menu. It was an excellent full bodied choice to pair with a tender venison loin (one of the courses). It had beautiful nuances of black cherry and dark chocolate and a hint of pepper. Too bad I can’t find it through our LCBO store. But if I ever make it to Washington State near the Oregon border, I will be visiting the Walla Walla Valley appellation to try more of their Cabs.

I thought for something different, I would invite my dinner companions to express their opinions as guest bloggers.

I lost count of the number of times I said the word ‘amazing’ because I could think of no other words to describe the eight taste sensations I devoured over the course of three hours. It was the first and only time I will visit Susur, but I will sing the chef’s praises in hopes of inspiring others to travel to New York to experience his new restaurant. It will be a sad day when the kitchen closes on May 31 - a day when the best chef in Canada travels southward.

- Alyssa

For some, eating out in Toronto with good company is merely a simple pleasure of the usual day-to-day. But dining at Susur was something far beyond what words can describe - a surreal evening that was truly experiential. Forget the statues of Colonel Sanders that lined the wall, or the black-wired bird cages that hung in the hue of the dim purple lights - this night was all about great service, fabulous wine (Ecole 41) and eight truly amazing courses.

To begin the evening, we started with an oyster with aged sherry, gherkin vinaigrette and a delicious gazpacho with lobster. It was a cold and tasty treat that made me excited about the dishes that would follow. The peppercorn crusted venison loin, cooked to perfection, melted in my mouth and was beautifully partnered with seared foie gras, an eggplant polenta tart, bison jus and the sweet touch of pineapple glaze. It’s what heaven would taste like! I thoroughly enjoyed the contrast of cold palette-cleansing dish that followed – a delicious slice of kobe beef and lobster atop a yuzu soya glaze and a teaspoon of light wasabi mousse. The organic strawberry sorbet marinated in black pepper and balsamic was very interesting; the combination of strawberries and black pepper truly awoke my tastebuds! The halibut and diver scallop dishes that followed were also delicious, but at that point I was struggling to keep the momentum going with all food. I’m just not used to eating an eight-course meal but couldn’t say no to such a treat. Lastly, our table was given two three-plate servings of sweet dim sum – a perfect way to end the evening. Chocolate. Raspberry. Pecan. Pistachio. Caramel. There were enough flavours to satisfy anyone’s sweet tooth no matter what preference. At the end of the night, Susur was so kind to sign a menu, “To Hazel… Thank You… Susur ’08.” He left his name with a little traditional Chinese stamp on the menu. Only a small remembrance of the massive stamp he has left on this city.

This entry still doesn’t justify how amazing the evening was. How do you describe service at a restaurant where the executive chef - Susur himself - looks over your shoulder to see that you’ve been served well. How do you describe the integrity of a chef who closes a five-star restaurant in Toronto to protect the sanctity of his own kitchen. Amazing. (Yes - it was the word of the night.) So, as the city says so long to the one of the best, Toronto will not forget. When a talent shines as bright as Susur’s….it is undeniable…unforgettable.

Hazel

Hope you enjoyed the play by play of our dining experience by my fellow foodies. You can bet Susur will earn those coveted Michelin stars pretty fast!


The Holey Bagel

As a former Montrealer, I am pretty particular about my bagels. The best in the world -hands down - the Montreal bagel is the all mighty bagel (in my opinion and of course, many others)

Montreal has two bagel bakeries in the Mile End district, which was once home to the majority of Montreal’s Jewish community. Native Montrealers disagree on the best bakery. It is a toss up between St-Viateur (www.stviateurbagel.com) or Fairmount (www.fairmountbagel.com).  It is a pretty subtle difference but I find the Fairmount ones just slightly chewier. You can even find a ten minute Quebec documentary film online about the bagel war between St-Viateur and Fairmount.

You will spot many cars with Ontario license plates outside these venerable Montreal bagel establishments as everyone stocks up on their fill before returning home. Tip - If you find yourself in Montreal and wanting to try St-Viateur’s bagels, the street sign above the store is labeled “La maison du bagel” and the St-Viateur words are painted on the plate glass window.

I love Montreal bagels. Once I took orders from my colleagues to meet the minimum online order and six dozen bagels arrived from St -Viateur as they ship across Canada. Needless to say everyone in my office was very happy. 

I even freeze them and packed two dozen in my luggage to bring to Hong Kong for my sister. She hasn’t had any luck in finding a great bagel without paying a small fortune - it is almost US$4 each (they are flown in from Manhattan’s H & H Bagel). You can find some frozen ones in some of the grocery stores. Not quite the same.

When I worked for New York based Revlon Inc., I challenged my PR colleagues to a bagel taste off.  I flew down to Gotham with Montreal and Toronto bagels in hand and we did a big bagel taste off between the Montreal ( I chose St - Viateur bagels), Toronto’s Gryffe’s Bagel Bakery and New York’s famed H & H Bagel. Several of them were Jewish and felt they could speak with authority on the best bagel. Much to their surprise, they agreed and liked the Montreal bagel.

Why Montreal? Taste wise - there is a great denseness and sweetness to a Montreal bagel.  

The holey bagel is made differently in New York vs. Montreal. In actuality, the Montreal bagel is made with malt and egg rather than salt and malt in New York.  As well, it is also boiled in honey sweetened water rather than just plain water.  Plus it is baked in a wood-fired oven which gives a great sheen to the bagel. The New York variety is puffy compared to the small and thin Montreal bagel. Of course, the hole is much bigger in the Montreal bagel.

If you are wondering, I avoid the Toronto bagel which is more New York style. It is light and airy and very Jurassic sized in my books. I can’t find myself eating a bloated Toronto bagel.  But I know many people who swear by Toronto’s Gryffe’s bagel. To me, a Toronto bagel is like eating a very large soft roll with a hole.

Not to mention to witness the preparation of a Montreal bagel is an experience in itself. The aroma is out of this world when you step foot into a Montreal bagel factory. You can watch them hand make a bagel from a strip of dough and drop them into a boiling vat of honey water before sliding them on wooden planks to be placed inside a hot wood burning oven. When they come out,  they are rolled in poppy seeds or sesame seeds and you just want to grab one hot!

It has to be the traditional poppy seed or sesame seed variety. I am a purist. Not the everything or all dressed bagel, onion, cinnamon, pumpernickel, blueberry bagel, cheddar bagel, or whole wheat variety.

If you are wondering how I survive in Toronto without a Montreal bagel, I have lots of people who bring me bagels from Montreal. I freeze them. Not the same since you have to toast them. But beggars can’t be choosy.

But there are a few places in Toronto that offer Montreal style bagels.  It might be blasphemy for some former Montrealers. But sometimes you just have to get by with Montreal style.

Unfortunately Kettleman’s on the Danforth has disappeared but in a pinch there is St. Urbain’s in St. Lawrence Market. I recently discovered the Bagel Shop  (www.thebagelhouse.ca) courtesy of another ex-Montrealer. The owners worked in both Fairmount and St-Viateur. It is pretty authenthic.

On my last visit to Gotham, I introduced some friends to H & H Bagels which is in the Upper West Side (2239 Broadway - www.hhbagel.com). It is open 24 hours and a great way to save some bucks on breakfast whilst visiting New York. They sell smoked salmon, cream cheese and orange juice so you just need to pack a pocket knife to cut your bagel.  They also have another retail store at 639 West 46th  (www.hhmidtownbagelseast.com) if you want to give them a try.

My brother is a big fan of Absolute Bagels in the Upper West Side near Columbia University (2788 Broadway between 107th and 108th). They are still too big in my books.

When I am out in California and wanting a bagel, I like Noah’s Bagels. Rather than a mom and pop store, it is a big chain which also has outlets in Washington and Oregon states.

Although I recently found out that one bagel is the same as eating five slices of bread in terms of carbs. Needless to say, I am now even more fussy since I can’t waste a heavy carb count on any olde bagel. So I try to save those calories for the chewy and sweet Montreal bagel.

You know it is a great bagel when you can eat it by itself. Especially when it is fresh from the oven - just a pure bagel unadulterated. It is a delight and schmear is not required.


Hog Heaven

You must have thought I am talking about pork but alas I am talking about delicious comfort food at NYC’s first official gastropub, The Spotted Pig in the West Village (on a very quiet corner of West 11th and Greenwich Street). You may want to put it on your list on your next visit to New York. Maybe in June during International Conference?

It opened a while ago so it isn’t the one and only gastropub. I was speaking to Corbin Tomaszeski, the chef at Holt Renfrew Cafe about New York restaurants and he recommended a visit. Corbin makes wonderful tartines (French origins) - a topic for another day.

One of the partners is Mario Batali in case you are a fan.

What is a gastropub? It is quite simply a pub that serves high quality food. I first experienced a gastropub several years back in a little country pub in Cotswold area aka west England (supposedly Prince William and Harry drop in when they are in the area since it is near Princess Anne’s estate - nothing like a little name dropping!). It is a British term to describe posh food in a casual pub environment, but of course, it isn’t cheap like what I call “old style” pub fare. In fact, Diana Henry, a British food writer has already written The Gastropub Cookbook. Supposedly the term was coined in 1991 which is as long as I have been an IABC member!

For those who have been to Japan, think about the “izakaya” - the Japanese version of a gastropub which has origins from the sake shop. On my visits to Tokyo and then Kyoto, I loved going to izakayas. They serve food items that are meant to be shared (like Spanish tapas or small plates which are the rage du jour). I particularly like ones that have a robatayaki which is an open hearth where chefs grill seafood and vegetables. The ingredients are displayed in front of you so that you can point to what you want. Of course, you can have tasty yakitori (grilled chicken skewers), sashimi and tofu many ways all washed down with beer or sake. The only Toronto version of an izakaya just closed - it was far too stylish to be a cozy japanese pub and my first clue was the fancy martinis. Fortunately we have a robatyaki restaurant though!

Oops - back to the hog, reservations are not accepted at The Spotted Pig. I went on a Friday and in-between prime meal times - aka around 2 pm. I still had to wait half an hour but it was well worth the wait for this Michelin starred cozy and comfortable neighbourhood spot. I don’t think I would wait the normal two hours plus for dinner.

The ambience is typical pub - noisy and busy but it is has a good ambience with the pig paraphernalia all around (small figurines, carved, painted, drawn and even a Chinese quilted pig mobile), weathered doors, brown butcher paper on the tables, a pressed tin ceiling and framed illustrations of fresh vegetables (seemingly green) like a beanpod and lettuce.

The chef is April Bloomfield. She hails from the River Cafe in London and also Alice Waters’ Chez Panisse in Berkeley, California.

It is simply a wonderful place to eat with clean presentation and straightforward food. They are known for their sheep’s milk ricotta gnudi with brown sauce and sage leaves. (gnudi means nude ravioli and it is pronounced with the silent “g”). Instead, I opted to try their Smoked-haddock chowder with their homemade crunchy pillow crackers and their Cubano sandwich with pork, proscuitto and pickled jalapeno which came with an argula salad. The Cubano sandwich was very tasy but the chowder was divine - it was a chunky one dish meal. I was worried that the fish would be too strong but the smoky flavour combined with the potatoes, and bacon were fantastic.

My friends tried their chargrilled burger with Roquefort cheese and of course - I had to try a bite. It has to be one of the best tasting burgers I have ever bitten into. It is juicy and the addition of condiments like ketchup would just destroy this burger. I hear the best burgers are at the Corner Bistro in the West Greenwich Village - I haven’t made it yet but The Spotted Pig serves them up with a mountain of tangled shoestring fries with rosemary and garlic. If you eat one shoestring fry, you can’t stop.

The staff are warm and we had great service on our visit.

Rather than trying a local micro-brewery beer (aka Brooklyn Brewery), I tried their Bloody Mary which features freshly grated horseradish and lots of roasted garlic. It is divine and probably the best bloody mary that I have had. But it is a little on the salty side.

So if you want to have check out a gastropub with simple, fresh ingredients and great food, try The Spotted Pig next time you in the Big Apple. You might be in hog heaven.

Just look for the spotted pig hanging from the corner. Just like the British pubs several hundred years back when they hung a lump of wood in the form of a wooden pig, duck or swan to help the illiterate population who couldn’t read the signs and find the establishment. Hope you like it!

(P.S. Note it is Greenwich Street not Greenwich Avenue - it is so easy to forget when you spend too much time in mid-town, upper west side and upper east side with all the numbered streets!)


Searching for Shortbread

Last week, I was down in Durham, North Carolina. I am always searching for yet another food find, so this time, I sought out Carolina Highland pure Butter Shortbread cookies which are sold at a store called A Southern Season - supposedly a 60,000 sq foot mecca of food, cookware, and cooking gadgets located in Chapel Hill, North Carolina. They were recommended by the New York Times.

I would not expect to seek shortbread in North Carolina since I normally associate shortbread with Walker’s shortbread aka of the Scottish tradition. But I did find out that a group of Highland Scots migrated to North Carolina more than 250 years ago - so it might explain the traditional shortbread.

Although I must admit I am a big fan of Fortnum & Mason, my favourite London food store in Piccadilly and they used to sell a delicious almond shortbread cookie and their chocolate chip shortbread was pretty yummy as well. I think they have been discontinued since on many visits to the venerable store over the years, I have not found them again.

Unfortunately I ended up working late and didn’t make it out to Chapel Hill. The store is on my list for my next visit to Raleigh-Durham area. But I found a mini airport store of A Southern Season and they sold the cookie tin - a mere .19 oz. To my chagrin, they didn’t have the chocolate variety. But I have to tell you this cookie is worth the trip! Simple ingredients - just flour, butter, sugar and rice flour make a delicious and light cookie that isn’t dry like too many shortbread cookies. Of course I don’t dare ask the caloric count and it isn’t listed.

For those lovers of shortbread - you can also order them online.

On another note, I tried Chicken and Dumplings since I was in the south. I have to say I am not a big fan. I wasn’t quite sure of the white gooey gravy and could only find one piece of chicken which was at least white meat. Plus I wasn’t sure what was really a dumpling vs. gravy. Now I should add it wasn’t fancy fare since I was at the Cracker Barrel which was the closest restaurant to my hotel. Someone told me it is a big chain restaurant along the US I-75. For $7.99 to have their sampler platter which unbelievably included the chicken and dumplings, meat loaf, a slice of country ham, fried okra, cinnamon apples and sweet potato casserole (it was too much food - could feed two people!), you can’t say much more.

But I understand country singer Tim McGraw loves the dish and you can find his recipe on the web. I guess I will have to hold off on casting judgment on this particular dish. Has anyone else tried it? Thoughts?

I am off to the city of food tomorrow…off to the Big Apple. If you were to pick one word to describe a city, don’t you think food would equal New York City?


Sauce is boss

Let’s talk BBQ sauce even though over the weekend Toronto was blasted by old man winter and a mere 30 centimetres of snow fell. I can’t even get close to my BBQ with the amount of snow we have.

I am always in the hunt for finger licking store-bought BBQ sauces. Effortless BBQ is always good when you are time-starved. I would love any recommendations!

I am off to North Carolina at the end of this week. I haven’t been visited in ten plus years and on my past trip, I discovered a fantastic BBQ sauce called Bone Suckin’ sauce. I can now find it in Toronto and understand it is available in Europe as well. It is a great all natural honey molasses based sauce - although thin and runny (they do have a thick version now). It is fantastic on chicken drumsticks and pork ribs. You have to try it!

North Carolina BBQ is different from Texas BBQ. I was just in San Antonio and tried out their local BBQ joint. They seem to favour beef brisket over pork in terms of meat. The sauce seemed more thick and sticky. I understand that this is a difference in terms of geography. Thin vs. thick and runny vs. sticky. Hard to believe that there are so many varieties of BBQ sauce. You can get tomato, vinegar and mustard based versions. I hear Kansas City has some great BBQ but haven’t made it there yet. And of course, there is even a Chinese style BBQ sauce - aka Hoisin sauce.

BBQ suace is so versatile - you can use it before, during and after. Of course, I am a big condiment fan and always searching for great finds. I was in Windsor, Ontario two years ago and discovered a local favourite restaurant called Tunnel Bar-B-Q that serves fall off the bone ribs with a great Sweet Sauce. It is delicious sauce as a condiment to accompany your chicken and ribs but I use their Cook Off Sauce as the marinade. I like it so much that I asked a fellow IABC member who was going home to visit to pick up some Sweet Sauce. She was gracious and got me a massive jug. So I cleaned off my BBQ in the middle of January to grill some chicken for some friends. They are now converts to this Tunnel Bar-B-Q Sweet Sauce. Rather than ordering online, they are scheming to figure out who goes to Windsor frequently so they can stock up for the summer grill season.

Just watch out for the sugar in your commerical sauces as it can easily burn your meat to a crisp.

Happy grilling.


My supper club

Welcome to my blog about food and exploring the world.  Rather than blog about communications, I thought I would blog about what I love: food and travel. Of course, doesn’t everyone? We all love to eat! Not to mention exploring the world for new experiences.

My non-IABC friends talk about their book clubs and the latest book they read. Personally, I think it is more fun to talk about food. As a communicator, I am always “reading” - newspapers, magazines, business books, cook books, and don’t ever seem to have enough time to read some good fiction or non-fiction.

I have been very fortunate to meet fellow IABC-ers on various dine-arounds which are great fun and a fantastic way to make new friends and see old friends again. I highly recommend it!

I thought a blog would be a great way to create a virtual “supper club” within the IABC community. I would love to be able to “exchange” foodie knowledge and travel tips. Since we all travel for fun and/or business, we can easily swap restaurant recommendations, cooking tips, and travel tips. Pardon the pun - but there are plenty of food for thought.

I invite you to join my quest to obtain gastro-credentials to become a serious foodie. I hope this blog will appeal to those who are passionate about the finest, latest, and most delicious foodie knowledge.